Time to get knotted!

In previous blogs, I have put down my thoughts and knowledge on the miles of both decorative and practical rope work used on working boats. I thought I would just finish this ‘topic’ off with what I know about making and using this rope work.

WHAT ROPES ARE MADE FROM?

Rope can be made from a variety of fibres. There are mainly two groups which are natural fibres and oil-based synthetic fibres. Natural fibres are sisal, cotton, jute, coir and hemp. Nowadays, however, the majority of ropes produced in the World are from oil-based synthetic fibres such as nylon and polypropylene. The main differences between the two groups are that natural fibres will rot if soaked over a long period of time, due to the action of micro-organisms. Although man-made fibres are stronger than the strongest natural fibres and will not be damaged by micro-organisms, they will deteriorate in bright sunlight and melt at a lower temperature than the natural fibres. The skill of rope manufacturers has changed dramatically over the years, and the rope products now on the market bear no connection with the rope of old. Ropes used to be made by the traditional method called the 'the rope-walk', which was considered more versatile because it was able to produce a greater selection of rope widths.

THE ROPE WALK

Wild’s rope walk in west Yorkshire in 1910

The rope-maker worked at the "rope-walk" (sometimes known as the "band walk"), where hemp was spun into yarn. Hemp fibres were tied to a hook attached to a wheel which was slowly turned whilst the rope maker walked back down the rope walk, feeding out additional fibres from the supply he carried. Groups of yarn were later twisted together to the desired thickness of rope.

Hemp, sisal and manila are especially resistant to sunlight. They hold knots firmly and stretch very little. They must be stored dry to avoid mildew Chemicals will cause manila rope to deteriorate. These suit the demands of working boats.

Polypropylene rope is so light it floats. For this reason, it is very popular for modern day boating. It is affected by sunlight deterioration, more so than any other synthetic or natural fibre rope. When wet it is flexible and does not shrink.

Polypropylene begins to weaken and melt at 150F, the lowest melting point of all synthetic ropes. It is not as strong as nylon or polyester, but 2-3 times stronger than manila. It's highly resistant to acids, alkalis and oils. Because polypropylene is less expensive than other fibres, it is one of the most popular all-purpose ropes. It can be used for almost anything and it normally is. Synthetic ropes tend to be very harsh to handle and easily cause friction burns if allowed to slip through the hands.

USING ROPE WORK

Ok so that’s my bit of background on ropes and their manufacture, now lets get down to business as to what to do with these ropes and I intend to go through the three basic things we do with ropes, which I have seen many people struggle with! That is Coiling ropes, Throwing ropes and Lassoing things with ropes

COILING ROPES

Ropes have a natural lay, depending on which way the strands have been wound in manufacture, that is if they have been wound clockwise or counter clockwise. This is easy to establish just by a glance of the rope. Always coil a rope in the same direction that it has been ‘layed’ and always work from the fixed end towards the loose end, this then allows any twists/kinks to work off the loose end of the rope. Hold rope in left hand (for right handed people) where the coil is going to end. Slide right hand along rope to arms length then grip rope with right hand. Roll rope between fingers of right hand, in the same direction as the ‘lay’, as you form a loop. Pass the loop into your left hand. Slide right hand along rope to arms length and grip rope, roll rope between fingers of right hand as you form a loop. Pass loop into left hand and continue until rope is coiled. This task when mastered is so simple but I have seen most people end up with the rope forming a natural figure of eight in their hands as they coil, due to going against the ‘lay’. This usually results in the rope tangling into a knot, especially when trying to throw the ‘bundle’ to someone on the bank. And so to my next basic use.

THROWING ROPES

This is a skill that needs a lot of practice. Especially for that special event when you need it in an emergency, and you only have one shot! My advice to anybody is:- when tied up on that lovely quiet, deserted stretch odf towpath, miles from anywhere, on a lovely Summers evening and you have nothing to do – get a length of rope, practice coiling and then throwing the rope straight along the towpath until mastered.

Start by coiling the rope, laying each coil neatly next to the last coil. Swing the coiled rope underarm, then throw the rope at the person, not to the person catching it (Aim for their face as it is surprising how well people catch a wet rope heading for their face)

LASSOING WITH ROPES

There are many occasions when you do not have the advantage of someone else to assist by catching the end of a rope to tie it round for instance a bollard, or trying to tie up alongside another boat which you are just too that little bit too far away to step across. It is at times like these that you need the skill of the ‘wild west’ so as to lasso the stud or bollard.

Start off by neatly coiling the rope laying each turn next to the last in order, exactly as for throwing a rope. But this time, when coiled, split the coils into two holding the first half in the left hand, and the second half in the right hand leaving a short length (2 foot) between the coils. Grip the very end of the rope between the first finger and thumb of the right hand, holding the coils in the last three fingers, swing the two sets of coils underarm, then throw the two coils aiming to get one each side of the bollard/stud. Again this is something that can be practiced of and evening whilst moored by putting a mooring spike or similar some distance away on the towpath, (Try not to trip up walkers or cyclists) and practicing until you master the technique.

Ok so enough of the basic things we do with ropes. Now to a more specialist area to do with ropes and that of tying knots.

TYING KNOTS

These are what boatmen used to call

BUGGERS MUDDLES

Now we have got the ‘Buggers Muddle’ out of the way let us look at some simple knots that are used on working boats:-Braunston Hitch, Clove hitch and Crown knot

THE BRAUNSTON HITCH

The knot appears to be quite a universal ‘water user’ knot and I have heard called various names such as tugmans hitch, waterman’s hitch, boatman’s hitch, but I have always known it as a ‘Braunston hitch. In all the years that I have been boating I have only ever known and used one knot. I use it for:-

Mooring, breasting, etc. to a :- Bollard, stud, dolly, etc.

The rope from the boat is passed twice around a bollard. A loop is made in the loose end and passed under the rope from the boat. The loop is then lifted up and dropped over the bollard and the loose end is then passed around back of bollard. As the rope comes back round the back of the bollard, a loop is made in loose end and again passed under the rope from the boat. Loop is lifted up and dropped over bollard. That’s it, simplicity itself. This knot never slips, and never tightens up on itself, and is easily untied by simply lifting the loops back off the bollard. Here is quite a good link to the Braunston hitch being tied.

The next knot we are going to look at is the clove hitch.

THE CLOVE HITCH

Uses:

The Clove Hitch is included here primarily to condemn it. Its only advantage being easy to tie. However, it has two major failings: it slips and, paradoxically, can also bind.

Slipping:

I watched a fellow off our moorings trying to moor his 50 foot pleasure boat. Each time the mooring line was handed to his assistant (SWIMBO), she used a clove hitch to attach the line to the mooring post. The strong wind was hard blowing the starn away so he used his engine to swing the stern in. Each time he did so the strain was too much for the Clove Hitch, which slipped undone. This process was repeated several times despite increasingly forceful requests by the steerer that some other knot be employed to secure the line. Reviewing the events later it became apparent that the assistant was using the only knot she knew.

Binding:

Finally, if you make the knot secure by stacking on additional half hitches, i.e., multiple clove hitches, then you are inviting a major strain to cause the earlier turns to bind tightly and be impossible to untie. So, if you feel an urge to use a clove hitch - resist! Choose something else: or get a sharp knife ready!

The only reason I have included this knot is that it forms the basis of a decorative rope, the ‘Turks Head’.

Decide the position along the rope where you require the knot.

Form a loop in the rope

Form a second loop, the same way up. Both loops should be identical

Cross the loops one above the other to form the knot instead of two loops, second loop above the first

Place the knot over the post and there you are, done.

THE CROWN KNOT

The final knot we are going to look at is the crown knot. Is the basis of nearly all decorative rope work used on the boats and it is also one which we use in splicing.

Unwind enough strands to complete the task. (ears, swans neck, mast dropper)

Form a loop in the end of one of the strands. Pass second strand over the top of first strand.Pass third strand over the top of second strand, Pass end of third strand through loop formed in first strand. Pull all ends tight then continue going round and round until you have either run out of rope of you have the desired length.

Ok so there you have it all I say now is go out and get knotted, get some rope and have a practice. Until next time

Don’t bang ‘em about

Blossom.